Monday, March 29, 2010

In Japantown


The Peace Pagoda in Japantown, San Francisco.

Breaking Up



High Falls at Grand Portage State Park as the river starts to open up in early April of . This photo was taken yesterday afternoon, just before we had a big thunderstorm that dropped some heavy rain on the area. I'm going to walk back up to the falls this afternoon to see what kind of a difference yesterday's rain made on the ice and the water flow.

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Faraway

I have not disappeared from the face of the earth, but entries could be sporadic until January! A combo of being down under , jet lag and less consistent intent than usual. Bear with, bear with . . .we have seen the pesky ibis, the cat bird and the honey-eater. The duck billed platypus swims at Yungaburra.





Harry's blog of our trip

Harry's blog



And mine :

http://auntiekath.blogspot.co.uk






A short walk in Mossman Gorge, Qld.








We took the bus from the visitor centre and walked along the marked circuit through the rainforest.






The visitor centre car park was very full














From a break in the trees you can see the mountain



















a swimming hole in the Mossman river



Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Green and black cicada

Tibicen linnei

Newly emerged Linne's Cicada, Tibicen linnei. Looking pretty spiffy, especially considering the dirt nap.

-----

I think that this is Linne's Cicada, but as you can see here, the Tibicen cicadas are very similar.

Go here to hear some of the songs.

-----

Submitted to the Friday Ark.

Friday, March 19, 2010

On The Road

Wow, here it is, September 6th already. It's been two weeks since my last post and the time has, quite literally, flown by!

After a few very long and hectic days (and nights) of packing, the apartment was vacated on August 30th - - It was 11pm when I got to my friend's house and 6:30 came around awfully quick the next morning! After my doctor's appointment in Fort Wayne on Monday, I finished going through the last bit of stuff deciding what to take and what to store. We worked a while on installing curtains in the van and after several unsuccessful attempts, came up with something that will work, I hope.

It was a little after 4 pm Tuesday when the bicycle rack and bike were secured to the back of the van. A few minutes later I was on my way, almost. A couple of quick stops to drop off the last few items in storage, get ice for the chest, and gas for the car... I left Columbia City at 5:00 pm

My friends thought I was crazy to leave so late in the day, but I just wanted to be on my way. I also knew, from past experience, that I wouldn't be able to sleep that night. Just too hyper and stressed out. I only drove for 3 hours or so and stopped for the night on my way to southern Indiana.

The next morning I was up at 7:00 but didn't leave the motel until 10:30. The plan was to go to Vevay, in Switzerland County, and to McKay Cemetery to get some good photographs of the grave-sites of my 3rd great grandparents, Samuel and Susanna (Ball) Bray. I had previously taken pictures of the stones but they were covered with moss or lichens and the images were not legible. I knew that the stones faced west, so the best time to photograph them would be shortly after noon. It was about 12:30 when I arrived at the cemetery and, as suspected the stones were still covered with lichen and illegible. However, a little bit of water and a soft bristle brush made all the difference in the world!

Vevay is a nice little town on the Ohio River that was a major stop for river boats and packets traveling along the Ohio back in the day. Someone has commemorated that history with a fine mural painted on one of the buildings just north of the city parking lot, near the library. I should have, but didn't, take the time to find out who the artist was or when it was done.



It's a challenge to drive on the backroads through the hills and valleys of Switzerland County, but it is fun too. McKay Cemetery is situated on top of a hill on the east side of Patton Hollow Road. Isn't that a neat name? Nice and quiet, except for the dogs barking. There are three houses near the cemetery, one on the east side and two on the west, but I saw nary another soul. And though I could hear people talking occasionally, I couldn't make out what they were saying. Once in a while a car or farm vehicle would pass by, but otherwise it was pretty quiet and peaceful.

I stopped for lunch in Vevay at 3 o'clock and finally hit the road again at 3:30. A couple more hours driving and I stopped for the night at some little burg along US 231.

The next day I took US 231 south to Owensboro, Kentucky and then to US 60 the rest of the way through Kentucky and on into Springfield, Missouri. The drive through Kentucky was beautiful. It was a two-lane highway all the way and not much traffic. I enjoyed it tremendously. Crossing the Mississippi River into Missouri, the road changed to a four lane limited access highway, with parts still under construction. Somewhat desolate looking and rather boring scenery. But it was easy driving and I made good time, arriving at my destination a little after 7 pm.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Visiting Neighbours at Work

Seven Cycles

A couple of weeks ago I visited Seven Cycles - a local manufacturer of titanium, steel and carbon fiber bicycles. I was given a tour of the factory and it was, of course, fascinating. I never tire of seeing local framebuilding shops: The machinery, the precision of the work involved, even the heaps of tubing and the scraps of metal lying around excite me. And there certainly was all that at Seven, on a grand scale.




Seven Cycles

To my surprise - seeing how they are TIG-welders mostly - there was even lugwork. Lots and lots of lugwork in fact, with interesting cutouts.




Seven Cycles

But what made the biggest impression on me during the visit was not the intriguing floor layout, the delicately carved titanium latticework, or the explanation of Seven's approach to the manufacturing process. It was the fact that I recognized so many of the faces I saw there.




Stefanie Adams, Seven Cycles
It is hard to explain the state of mind this put me in without coming across as preachy about local manufacturing, which is not my intent. I am not thinking about the political-economic implications of local manufacturing as a concept, but about the very concrete existence of my local manufacturing. I mean, there is a factory 6 miles from my house, and in this factory they make bicycles from scratch, and the people making these bicycles - well I happen to know many of them and they live nearby, and sometimes we even see each other on the street. That is highly unusual is all. In today's society the relationship between objects and the people who make them has become completely abstracted. We do not expect our neighbours to make the stuff we might be using; we expect that stuff to be made by some nameless entity, far away from our little world.




Rob Vandermark, Seven Cycles
When I told SevenownerRob Vandermark how much I enjoy watching frames being built, he replied that not everyone feels that way. For some seeing the process takes away the mystery, and it's more exciting if a frame just "appears" - shiny and new with flawless paint. I've heard that before. A framebuilder once told me that he discourages customers from watching him work, because it makes them more aware of the possibility of human error and later those customers are liable to feel more nervous about their frames. Psychologically, that makes sense. But it also means that consumers of goods prefer not to think about the process of making those goods, which has all sorts of far-reaching implications.




Tim Delaney, Seven Cycles
Maybe it's because I've made things by hand myself and used them, as well as given and sold them to others who've used them. But seeing how something is made excites me rather that ruins some illusion of flawlessness.




Bryan Hollingsworth, Seven Cycles

The first person I saw when I entered the production area during my visit was Bryan Hollingsworth of Royal H. Cycles - whom I watched make a lugged mixte frame for me more than 2 years ago now. He works for Seven(making carbon fiber frames!) a couple of days a week, and on Royal H. the rest of the time.




Mike Salvatore, Seven Cycles
Welder Mike Salvatore has his own project on the side as well, albeit a Sketchy one.





Dan Pugatch, Seven Cycles
Dan Pugatch lives in Somerville and is well known on the local cycling scene.




Dan Pugatch, Seven Cycles
Dan writes ablog and contributes to Boston Retro Wheelmen, but what I didn't know is that he also has this cool tattoo that promotes cycling to work in regular clothing. Notice that the pirate is riding a step-through with a full chaincase. I wonder how the crate is attached to the rear rack, and whether there is a sword peg brazed onto the frame?




Jonathan Henig, Seven Cycles

Jonathan Henig lives maybe 5 minutes from me and is a fellow photographer. First thing he did when we started talking was examine my camera lens and nod approvingly.




Neil Doshi, Seven Cycles
I had not met Neil Doshi before, but I knewhis bike - a happy marriage of titanium, green canvas and leather.





Seven Cycles
And now I saw it in person, along with dozens of other contraptions in the famous Bike Room. The bikes of Seven employees are staggeringly practical - lots of upright 3-speeds, handmade racks, huge saddlebags. More what I would have expected to see at Rivendell than at Seven, a company known for its racing bikes.





Seven Cycles
After my tour, I couldn't help but wonder whether I'd gotten the most out of it. The space is truly impressive and there is a positive energy that makes me want to run out and apply for a job there, regardless of what it is they'd assign me to do (I hear there is a titanium shavings sweeper position open?). In retrospect I should have asked more detailed questions about the manufacturing process. I should have taken close-up photos of the machinery with a medium format film camera. Instead I walked around talking to everyone, then watching them quietly, then talking some more. Not necessarily about bikes either. And then we all said "good-bye" and "see you soon" and then I rode my bike home - an idyllic route from Watertown along the Charles River Trail.





Seven Cycles
Cycling home after my visit, I remembered the first time I met Rob Vandermark. It was about a year and a half ago, when I had just discovered the Ride Studio Cafe. The first time I came in there was this tall, polite, unassuming guy serving coffee behind the counter. Naturally, I thought he was the barrista. Later someone came in with a flat tire and he went to take care of that, so then I figured he was the all-around shop guy. After a brief chat, it also turned out that he was my neighbour - living nearby in Somerville and commuting to Lexington by bike when possible. Only well into another conversation with him later did I learn, with some embarrassment, that he was the owner of both RSC and Seven Cycles. As a customer, you would never know. And of course the whole point is that it should not matter.






Mike Salvatore, Seven Cycles
I guess all I'm saying is... My neighbours build bikes. And I think that's really, really great.

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Data Mining :: Who is Who? And how do they fit?

This is going to be a long post... it has taken far more time to compile than anticipated and I wasn't sure how to present the information. Hopefully it will be somewhat clearer than mud and will be of help to someone besides myself! If you are doing research on these Rupert families, please contact me – kinexxions@gmail.com



These past three weeks I have consumed “quite a few” hours searching for tidbits regarding Rupert families in Columbiana County, Ohio - in online family trees, FamilySearch, Ancestry dot com, Footnote, and other sites as well as spending three full days at the Allen County Public Library in Fort Wayne.



A considerable amount of time has also been spent in evaluating what had been found at the Family History Library in addition to the new stuff. A lot of “information” has been gathered with more than a few “Huh?” moments, especially with the family trees but also in “official records,” which has resulted in a bit of confusion which in turn has caused some degree of frustration because the records that are needed are not immediately available. More information = more questions that need answered.



In trying to sort out the Rupert families in Columbiana County, it certainly helps that the two “biggest players” (Adam and John) both left wills that named their children, though perhaps not all of them and, of course, some of the names are the same! However, John did not give us the married names of his daughters, just their first names, which certainly complicates matters. I do appreciate the fact that he listed his children but why oh why couldn't he have given us their married names?



For now, my goal was to attempt to determine how many Rupert families there were in Columbiana County and who belongs to whom. At this time it is a “best guess” and more research is needed to confirm or deny any assumptions. I have not, by any stretch of the imagination reviewed all of the family trees online that are out there for these people nor have I done an exhaustive search (though this has been a bit exhausting!) for all records.



FamilySearch has been putting the Ohio Tax Records 1800-1850 online. They are only 17% complete and include just 11 counties for the years 1816 through 1838, but one of those counties happens to be Columbiana! The neat thing about the years 1816-1820 is that they listed the original owner as well as the current proprietor.



In addition, the microfilm of the Ohio Land Records (Roll 136) for the Register of Certificates 1800-1812 for Steubenville Land Records was viewed at the Allen County Public Library. The records for the “original owners” (Adam, John and William Rupert) were transcribed.



The Tax Lists, along with Census Records and Land Patent Records have identified men with the Rupert surname who either owned land in Columbiana County, Ohio or resided there. For the early years (prior to 1828) the township names were not included on the tax list. I've used the land description (Range and Township) to determine the actual township. An example, from the 1816 tax list for Columbiana County, Ohio is shown below.





1816 Property Tax List, Columbiana County, Ohio



Portion of the Ohio Townships map (pdf) found at the Ohio DNR website.

For reference purposes: Hanover Township is left of Center (where the “OLU” is in Columbiana). Unity Township is in the upper right corner. Columbiana County originally encompassed the southern tier of townships in Mahoning County as well as the eastern tier of townships in Stark and portions of Carroll and Jefferson Townships.



Below is a compilation of the Ohio Tax Lists available at Family Search for the years 1816-1836 and the early federal census records (1820-1840) for Columbiana County for the surname Rupert, or variations (Rooperd, Rupart, Ruper, Ruperd, Rupert, Ruppard, Ruppart, Ruppert, and Ruport) To save space, I've omitted the surname from the Property Tax abstracts. The Tax Lists for Personal Property have not been included but I found no additional names for the years covered.



I'm not sure what, if any, conclusions can be drawn with this information. Examination of the actual Deed Records could provide additional information. I'm hoping that someone with more information will see this and contact me! kinexxions@gmail.com



=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= John =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

  • John Rubert, resident of Columbiana County, Ohio was issued Patent Certificate 1145 on December 1, 1804 for 159.4 acres in R4 T15 S26 through the Steubenville Land Office. Final Certificate 1347 was issued to him on November 25, 1808.

  • John – Tax List - Hanover Twp (R4 T15 S26) – original owner - 161.3 acres - 1816, 1817, 1818, 1819, 1820 (80 acres), 1821, 1822, 1823, 1824, 1825, 1826, 1827, 1828, 1829, 1831, 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836

  • John Rupert - 1820 - Hanover Twp p5, one male over 45 and one female over 45.

  • John Ropert - 1830 - Hanover Twp p19, one male 80-89, one female 20-29, one female 70-79 [This is the father of my ancestor Eva Rupert Yarian. The 1830 census puts John's date of birth between 1741 and 1750. The female age 20-29 is most likely a caretaker or housekeeper.]

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Richard, son of John =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

  • Richard Rupert - 1820 - Hanover Twp p5, one male under 10, one male 16-25, one female 16-25 [He is most likely Andrew Richard who sold land in 1824 along with his wife Mary and John Ruppard and wife Barbara and the Richard mentioned in John's will. He may be the Andrew Rupert listed in the 1830 census Sandy Twp, Stark County, Ohio p1.]

  • Richard - Tax List - Hanover Twp (R4 T15 S26) - original owner: John Rooperd – 80 acres - 1820, 1821, 1822, 1823, 1824, 1825

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Adam =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

  • Adam Rupert, resident of Columbiana County, Ohio was issued Patent Certificate 1350 on April 26, 1805 for 313.2 acres in R7 T19 S11 through the Steubenville Land Office. Final Certificate 1445 was issued to him on April 12, 1809.

  • Adam - Tax List - Unity Twp (R1 T8 S17) – original owner - 324 acres – 1816, 1817, 1818, 1819, 1820, 1821, 1822, 1823, 1824, 1825, 1826, 1827, 1828, 1829 [apparently sold land to Adam Jr and Jacob]

  • Adam - Tax List - Canton Twp (R8 T10 S25) - original owner: John Nichols - 160 acres – 1819, 1820 [Canton Twp is now part of Stark County. Do not know if this is the same Adam Rupert]

  • Adam - Tax List - Unity Twp (R1 T8 S5) – 50 acres - 1824

  • Adam Rupert – 1820 - Unity Twp p5, one male under 10, two males 16-25, one male 45 and over, one female 10-15, one female 16-25, two females 45 and over.

  • Adam Rookart Sr - 1830 – Unity Twp p17, one male 70-79, one male 80-89, one female 10-14, two females 70-79. One person in the household is blind. [Am assuming this is Adam Rupert Sr. as he is otherwise not enumerated in the census for Unity Township. On the same page as Adam Jr. and Jacob Rookart. Indexed as Adam Rookard Junior.]

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Jacob, son of Adam =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

  • Jacob - Tax List - Unity Twp (R1 T8 S17) - 160 acres – 1830, 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836 [Apparently purchased or received half of the property that was owned by his father.]

  • Jacob Rupert – 1820 - Unity Twp p5, one male under 10, one male 26-44, one female under 10, one female 16-25. [He is listed on the line immediately after Adam. Jacob was not named in the will of Adam Rupert but it was mentioned in several online trees that he was given a share of the remaining undistributed assets of Adam's estate.]

  • Jacob Rookart – 1830 - Unity Twp p17, three males under 5, one male 5-9, one male 30-39, one female under 5, one female 5-9, one female 30-39. [Am assuming this is Jacob Rupert. He is enumerated on the same page as Adam Rookart Jr and Sr.]

  • Rebecca Rupert - 1840 – Unity Twp p19, two males 5-9, one male 10-14, two males 15-19, one male 20-29, one female 10-14, one female 15-19, one female 40-49. [Rebecca is the widow of Jacob]

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Adam Junior, son of Adam =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

  • Adam Jr - Tax List - Unity Twp (R1 T8 S17) – 160 acres – 1830, 1832, 1833, 1835, 1836 [Apparently purchased or received half of the property that was owned by his father.]

  • Adam Jr - Tax List - Unity Twp (R1 T8 S11) – 160 acres – 1834

  • Adam Rookart Jr - 1830 – Unity Twp p17, one male under 5, one male 20-29, one male 30-39, two females under 5, one female 5-9, one female 20-29. [Assuming this is Adam Rupert Jr. as he is otherwise not enumerated in the census for Unity Township. Listed on the line just below Adam Sr. Indexed as Adam Rookard Junior]

  • Adam Rupert – 1840 – Unity Twp p19, two males under 5, one male 5-9, one male 10-14, one male 20-29, one male 30-39, two females under 5, three females 10-14, one female 30-39, one female 80-89. [This is Adam Jr as the elder Adam passed away on April 22 1840.]

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= ? ? ? ? ? ? =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=



Then there are these fellows, none of which are mentioned in the will of John or Adam Rupert. Are they related or are they “strays” that don't belong to either John or Adam?



=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= ? ? William Rupert ? ? =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=



The actual census pages were viewed and William is not listed in the 1820 or 1830 census for Green or Beaver Township.

  • William Rupert, resident of Frederick County, Maryland was issued Patent Certificate 627 on October 20, 1803 through the Steubenville Land Office. Final Certificate 1104 was issued to him on February 16, 1804.

  • William - Tax List - Green Twp (R3 T16 S1) – original owner - 690 acres - 1816, 1817 (delinquent), 1819, 1820, 1821, 1822 (non resident), 1823 (non resident), 1824 (non resident), 1825 (non resident) - entry shows S11, 1827 (no first name listed), 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835 (delinquent for 1833 & 34), 1836

  • William Rupert, resident of Frederick County, Maryland was issued Patent Certificate 628 on October 20, 1803 for 628 acres in R3 T16 S8 through the Steubenville Land Office. Final Certificate 1103 was issued to him on February 16, 1804.

  • William - Tax List - Green Twp (R3 T16 S8) – original owner - 640 acres – 1816, 1817 (delinquent), 1819, 1820, 1821, 1822 (non resident), 1823 (non resident), 1824 (non resident), 1825 (non resident), 1827 (no first name listed), 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836 (delinquent for 1835)

  • William Rupert, resident of Adams County, Pennsylvania was issued Patent Certificate 2516 on October 23, 1806 for 159.82 acres in R2 T13 S18 through the Steubenville Land Office. Final Certificate 1754 was issued to him on November 18, 1809. [May not be the same man who purchased land in Green Twp. There was another Rupert family in Beaver Township. See below.]

  • William - Tax List - Beaver Twp (R2 T13 S18) – original owner - 160 acres – 1816, 1817 (delinquent), 1818, 1819, 1820, 1821, 1822 (non resident), 1823 (non resident), 1824 (non resident)

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= ? ? Christian Rupert ? ? =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

  • Christian Rupert – 1820 - Centreville p2, one male 26-44, one female 16-25. A marriage is recorded for Christian Rupert and Mary Steller in Columbiana County ( v2 p12) on September 1, 1818. [The town of Carrollton was originally called Centreville. The name was changed when Carroll County was organized in 1833.]

  • Christian - Tax List – Washington Twp (R5 T14 S23) – 3 acres – 1826, 1828, 1829, 1830, 1832 [This land is now part of Carroll County.]

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= ? ? George Ropert ? ? =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

  • Geo Ropert – 1830 - Hanover Twp p19, one male under 5, one male 20-29, one female under 5, one female 20-29. [George is in Hanover Township, same as John.]

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= ? ? Beaver Township Ruperts ? ? =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=



And then, there is another Rupert family residing in Columbiana County - in Beaver Township. In 1846, Beaver Township became a part of newly formed Mahoning County. On pages 790-791 of the “20th Century History of Youngstown and Mahoning County, Ohio and Representative Citizens” edited and compiled by Gen. Thos. W. Sanderson, 1907 there is a biography of Jacob W. Rupert born August 13, 1840, in Beaver township, Mahoning County, Ohio. He is a son of Benjamin and Catherine (Wonsetler) Ruppert. Benjamin “was born in Beaver township and was a son of Jacob Ruppert, who came from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and settled first just north of North Lima, removing from there to a farm of 200 acres, northeast of Canfield, on which he lived for the rest of his life.” This Jacob does not appear to be part of the John or Adam Rupert families, but, who knows? I do have some additional information on this Mahoning County Clan but haven't had time to fully review it yet.

  • Jacob Ruperd - 1820 – Beaver Twp p2, five males under 10, one male 26-44, one female 26-44

  • Jacob - Tax List- Beaver Twp (R2 T13 S22) - original owner: Christian Klinker - 163 acres – 1817, 1818, 1819, 1820, 1821, 1822, 1823, 1825, 1826

  • Jacob - Tax List - Beaver Twp (R2 T13 S14) – 10.25 acres – 1826, 1827, 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832

  • Jacob Rupert – 1830 - Beaver Twp p9, one male under 5, one male 5-9, one male 10-14, one male 20-29, one male 40-49, one female under 5, one female 30-39.

  • Jacob - Tax List - Beaver Twp (R2 T13 S11) - 10 acres - 1831, 1832

  • Jacob - Tax List - Beaver Twp (R2 T13 S8) - 72 acres – 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836

  • Jacob - Tax List - Beaver Twp (R2 T13 S7) - 59 acres – 1836

  • Samuel - Tax List - Beaver Twp (R2 T13 S18) – 160 acres – 1826, 1827, 1828, 1829, 1831

  • Jacob Rupert - 1840 – Beaver Twp p7, one male 10-14, three males 15-19, two males 20-29, one male 40-49, one female 10-14, one female 40-49.

  • Benjamin Rupert - 1840 – Beaver Twp p3, one male under 5, one male 20-29, one female 15-19.

  • Eli Rupart – 1840 - Beaver Twp p17, one male under 5, one male 20-29, one female under 5, one female 15-19.

  • William Rupert – 1840 - Beaver Twp p17, one male 20-29 [born 1811-1820], one female under 5, one female 20-29.



Friday, March 12, 2010

Conditions outlook...?

This morning I went out to check the state of ice here in SWPA. As expected everything that had been climbable now wasn't. All the wonderful ice from the last cold snap fell and everything currently on the wall is new build over the last 48 hrs. The current local forecast is for temps to be below freezing through Monday, then a warm up is predicted through the long term thereafter. Here's a few photos from today.






Gun Club, Pistol Whipped Wall - devastated






Gun Club, Main Wall - devastated






SCII, Overview - Very wet and devastated






SCII, Beast and Grand Central Walls - devastated and rebuilding






Ohiopyle State Park, Youghiogheny River - Up and roaring



Although I didn't take any photos, Meadow Run climbing areas have been wiped out as well, but are very quickly rebuilding. With a few cold days ahead, Monday should prove to be the best day to hit the local ice. Irishtown might have some formations up by then as well. I'd forget Krahlick, Confluence, Layton Falls or Stewarton. Happy hunting if looking for local, climbable ice this weekend... With a miracle the forecast for warm will change to cold and produce epic conditions! Unlikely....but possible

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Oh! Canada...

This post is being brought to you from the Tourist Information Center in Grande Cache, Alberta, Canada! (Refer to the Map to see where that is... north of Route 16, about halfway to Grande Prairie on the road not shown.) I'm now into my third full day in this beautiful country and have managed to travel a little over 500 miles. It is a gorgeous day. Sunshine and blue skies, though a bit hazy but with no clouds.

When I arrived at the Roosville Port of Entry (north of Kalispell, Montana on US 93) at 4:20 pm on July 28th, there were a dozen vehicles and two motorcycles in line ahead of me. Fortunately the wait wasn't long. Fifteen minutes and a few questions later I was in British Columbia, Canada. The questions? Was I carrying: any firearms, anything I was going to leave behind in Canada, currency of any type valued at more than $10,000 Canadian, any alcoholic beverages? He also asked where I was going and what route I was taking to get there – it's a good thing I finally got around to figuring that out before I crossed the border!

According to the map I have, there were several Provincial Campgrounds within the first hundred miles. I stopped at the first one, called Kikomun Creek, about 20 miles from the border. It looked to be more like a resort since many of the RVs had decks or patios alongside them. I was quite relieved when the nice lady camp host said she had a spot for me. It was a nice place with friendly people. The sun was shining and it was in the upper 80s but there was a nice breeze and my camp site was in the shade. Ya can't ask for anything better!

It started raining just after sunset along with some thunder and lightening and then it rained most of the night, but I didn't care since I wasn't out in it! However, there were scattered showers along the 200+ miles I drove on Thursday. Cloudy skies with intermittent rain and a bit of sunshine. The scenery more than made up for the weather!

Upon entering Kootenay National Park at Radium Hot Springs, the sun was shining once again. This view of the Kootenay Valley is about half-way through the park. (Please, double-click on the images to view a larger version.)

This is half of Two Jack Lake, near Banff, taken between rain showers. I think it is the west half but my sense of direction got totally confused with the drive up there! At Two Jack Lake there is a lakeside campground and then there is the other one. The former was full but there was plenty of sites available at the other one, which is where I spent my second night in Canada.

Shortly after leaving Kikomun Creek Campground I saw a moose with her calf crossing the highway. There were a lot of deer grazing alongside the road. In Kootenay Park there were a group of about a dozen mountain goats, several quite small, near one of the pullouts on the other side of the road.

The drive through Banff and Jasper National Parks was amazing. I'll have some more pictures later (very slow internet connection) but they aren't all that great since the weather wasn't cooperating. It was cloudy and overcast most of the two days I spent there.

Photographs taken on July 29, ...

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Ice tool umbilicals



The Joke Slinger, on the BD Spinner leash, Jan. , the Cascades.



With the invention and popularity of leashless climbing, a once condemmed and decades old climbing tool has come back. While they are not mandatory, they are in vogue. It has been over 35 years since I saw the first pair of umbilicals in use.







Author's umbilicals of 9/16" webbing being used on a quick ascent of Polar Circus in the winter of 1979.

Gregg Cronn photo



Back in the late '70s and into the early '80s umbilicals were looked upon as a weak man's crutch. Mostly thought of as something the Canadians used (but never really did much) to aid sections of rotten, cold and really steep ice. We can blame all that on Bugs McKeith inventing the idea of ice aid while putting up some of today's modern classics, like Nemisis and Polar Circus. Just two among his many, many difficult ice climbs. Most visiting American climbers thought they were way ahead of the game by not using umbilicals while running up the first "free" ascents of the Canadian test pieces. Few outside Canada really made the "first free" ascents many claimed. Canadians had already been there on most of them and didn't fight back the cat calls.



No Internet back in the day so info was often sketchy and incomplete or just a fubar rumor. It was hard to keep track. Of course not every one used umbilicals even back then. But a few did. 1st and 2nd ascents of Slipstream did.



Jim Elzinga photo of John Lauchlan on the 1st ascent of Slipstream



They were not used for aid or for hanging to place screws. Although when required you could do either. The real use was to save your ass if you happen to fall. Hopefully an umbilical would keep you on the ice. BITD leads were long and run out. Ice screws could be hard, difficult or just plain impossible to get in, depending on the ice and out side temps. Weighting your umbilicals is a way to save the 2nd's strength while pulling screws if you can deal with that idea ethically today.No one sane thought the idea of falling with tools and crampons OK. Falling on the old gear generally required a hospital stay or worse.



Once I switched from Chouinard curved tools to a set of Terrodactyls for technical ice I seldom climbed without at least one umbilical attached to my harness or swami. As the tools changed the old umbilicals generally went straight on the new tools. Big jumps from Terros, Clog, Chacal, Pulsar.Pretty simple change as mine were just a set of tied 9/16" nylon tube webbing.



The first manufactured umbilicals I saw..years later ('05) ... where done up by Grivel. The "Grivel, Double Sping Leash" with a mini wire gate "biner" specifically designed for the task. While leashless tools really hadn't caught up with the possibilities yet, Grivel umbilicals were seen on some pretty amazing climbs often used by climbers sponsored by competing tool companies. The umbilical had finally "arrived". But no one outside a tiny circle of hardcore alpine climbers really knew it yet. A quick Goggle Images search will get you photos of Steve House, Marko Prezelj, Raphael Slawinski and a host of others using both the Grivel and BD umbilicals on hard alpine climbs all through the new millenium.



I worry more about dropping a leashless tool, than I do falling off. But when you can protect yourself from both mistakes it makes sense to ante up and use that protection. More than one really good climber has poked fun at me because of my support of umbilicals. More climbs and climbers I admire used umbilicals and have been suggesting you do as well.



Ueli Steck, Grand Jorasses, record speed solo, Jan '09. Jon Griffin photos









Easiest way to get yourself a pair of umbilicals is by reading Dave's web site and making your own. Good stuff!!



http://www.alpinedave.com/leashless_rig.htm

Alpine Dave photo



The second way is buy a pair of the commercially made ones.



Grivel offers several versions and Black Diamond offers their "Spinner" unit.

For what it costs to make a "good" pair of umbilicals both Black Diamond and Grivel offer real value imo.









Here is some detail on what I use and my observations.



Grivel was my first commercial set. I was lucky enough to get the original Grivel 3KN mini biner version with a girth hitch atatchment. Not a big fan of the mini locking version out now. Or a biner attachment to the harness. Good elastic and webbing that attaches to the harness by a girth hitch (small loop is passed through harness belay loop and tails are feed back through and out the small loop cinching tight on the belay loop) Very simple. Length is shorter than some seem to like but if I sit down on the leashes (6'1 and normal ape index) at full extention for both tools the Grivel leash will allow my tools to be out of reach. Just barely so, but still out of reach. It is durable.







Black Diamond had dozens of Spinner Leash prototypes out the last couple of years for real world testing and feedback. Again I was lucky enough to get a pair of those and used them a lot. Better yet for good feedback, I let all my partners use them.







Only thing I can see that has changed in the Spinner leash is the over all length has been shortened on the current version. I've seen current reviews commenting that the BD Spinner leash set up is now too short. Trust me? The Spinner IS NOT too short for anyone under 6'8" and a huge ape index that I know! The "too short" comment doesn't make sense unless the reviewer is mistakenly writing about a short early prototype? Mine on full extention are a full 2 feet past what I can reach.

If you happen to fall on the Spinner you'll have some work cut out for you getting back to your tools. The Grivel set up is managable but only just. The Spinner will make you work for a living it you weight it unprepared. But if you are using the most modern ice climbing techniques you should be stacking your tools on top of each other which should help. You'll need the extra reach to accomplish that and still have only a short fall for your Spinner to catch. It is a tough balancing act to get the right umbilical length and still get it to do everything required of it.

If you need to weight your tools intentionally, you had better stack them or you'll not be able to reach a tool using either brand name.While I like simple and wasn't impressed with the swivel of the Spinner originally, everyone else that used mine was. I bought and had a chance to use a pair of the Blue Ice Boa leasheswhile I was here in Chamonix. Liked themenough I have set my old Grivel's aside and am using the Boa now full time.

I like they pull test @550 daN or 1236 lbf. No one else committing to over 800 lbs. BD says 800# but the UIAA test is 450# which is what theBD and Grivel is rated at, so why bother? Because in climbing gear, more weight, "more better" (strength wise)generally.



More info here:

http://www.blueice.com/en/products/boa-leash

Now available in NA here:



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//04/blue-ice-again.html











I try to climb smart and if a technical ice tool goes in my pack so does a umbilical system. See ya out there!



Steve House on the top of the Italian Route, Taulliraju (5830m), first free ascent, three-day roundtrip, with Marko Prezel 2005 (Prezel photo)