Female Common Blue and Female Pheasant

Female Common Blue

Out and about on Saturday I found these two girlies a Common female blue and a Female Pheasant.

Big Cloud

We saw this really big nice looking thunderhead cloud on our way home from the Jemez

SPD Pedals and Platform Support

When it comes to SPD-style clipless pedals, there is some discussion about the benefits of models with integrated platforms versus without. For example, here is an email I received from a reader last week:

...I see in your photos that you use both the Crank Brothers Eggbeaters and Candy pedals. Which do you recommend for a beginner? My boyfriend likes Shimano A-520 pedals because of the extra platform support. His thought is that the Candys provide the same level of support, but not the Eggbeaters. Do you agree?

To answer this question, let me backtrack a bit. The Eggbeater and Candy pedals fromCrank Brothersare identical, except that the Candys (right) have a flat platform built around the bindings and the Eggbeaters (left) do not. When choosing pedals, I heard several arguments in favour of the Candys, including that the platform offers extra foot support, that as a beginner I would have an easier time clipping into a larger pedal, and that the platforms would allow me to ride in regular shoes.



I have now ridden with Candys on my own roadbike for the past 9 months. Over that time I have also borrowed friends' bikes with Eggbeaters (including a 100K ride).In the very beginning, the Candys were indeed easier for meto clip into. However, this advantage was short-lived andjust weeks later I already had no problem using Eggbeaters and could not distinguish between them. I can also confirm that the Candys are much easier to ride in street shoes, on the rare occasions I find myself doing this on a roadbike. But as far as foot support, I feel absolutely no difference between the two models. I thought that I would, but I don't.



The Eggbeaters have their own advantages. The lack of platforms makes them considerably lighter. They offer more points of entry. And they are easier to clean. Overall, I think that I prefer them, although really I am fine with either.



While not the same as the Crankbrothers system, you could draw parallels to this comparison with Shimano SPDs. There are pedals that consist of bindings alone, and those that incorporate a platform. Some claim the platform provides additional foot support and allows for more power to be transferred, making it similar to a road pedal. Others argue that this is not the case, as the platform sits too far below the binding to provide significant support. I have no comment on the mechanics of this at large, but can only say that with my style of riding, and my specific pedal and shoe combination, I cannot feel the difference. As a beginner, I would suggesttrying lots of pedals and figuring out what feels better to you.

Spring has arrived!

Just over a week later and WOW how things have changed along the shoreline! A week ago I was photographing ice all along the shore, this week all of that ice is gone. Its been very warm the past week, much warmer than March usually is. As a result, all of the ice that covered the Lake Superior shore is now gone. Which means, I suppose, that I can get back to photographing the rocks along the shoreline :-) I love shooting ice, but the rocks are fun as well. I am always very "foreground conscious" when it comes to my images... that is to say, I'm always looking for something interesting to put in the foreground of my landscape images. While exploring the shoreline yesterday I found this seasonal stream that only runs in the spring, emptying into Lake Superior. I knew it would be a good location to shoot a sunrise, so I went back there this morning to do just that.



All that talk about strong foreground elements being said, sometimes I just can't resist a more "simplistic image", such as the one above.



After shooting the sunrise over Lake Superior, I headed up to Grand Portage State Park to see how High Falls was looking after all the recent warm temperatures. I wasn't sure if I would find the falls still frozen, or running freely. As it turns out (much to my delight), I found the latter. The falls certainly wasn't the fullest I have seen it, but it was running at a very nice level for photography. When you get too much water coming over the falls it certainly is fun to watch, but shooting becomes a hassle. Too much water means too much mist, which in turn means its hard to keep the water off the camera.



The water level on this morning was just about perfect for making images. There was some light mist which necessitated the occasional wipe-down of the camera, but it wasn't bad at all. Also, when the water level is like it was today, the falls is much prettier (in my opinion) than when it is really raging. When its really running strong you don't get as many little channels of water coming over the edge. Photographing High Falls is something I never tire of... and that's probably because it never looks the same. The lighting is always just a little bit different and the flow is always different. On this particular morning I was blessed with some very nice light and clouds to complement the seemingly "perfect" amount of water :-)

Gunks Routes: Gaston (5.8-)

(Photo: Past the pro-less start on Gaston (5.8-).)




Maryana and I were looking for something new to do on a beautiful Saturday in April, and it seemed like if we wanted something out of the ordinaryour timing couldn't be better, since we might not have any choice in the matter.We arrived at the West Trapps lot in the morning to find it was already nearly full, even though the temperature was still in the low 40's.As we walked down the carriage road it seemed like all theusual suspect climbswere occupied. It was the perfectoccasion for usto jump on something unpopular, something obscure.




When wepassed the connector trail I looked up at the cliff and saw theexpected sights. Climbers were on Arch (5.5). Climbers were on Strictly From Nowhere (5.7). But as usual no one was on the no-star climbs nearby: Calisthenic (5.7), Gorilla My Dreams (5.7), or Gaston (5.8-). And no one was on Splashtic (5.10a), a climb which gets a star from Dick Williams but which seems always unoccupied because the first pitch is 5.10 and the second is 5.9 R.




I was intrigued by Splashtic, because it seemed from the description that the crux is really one move, early in the first pitch. Looking it over on Saturday, I thought it looked doable and protectable. Maybe this was a good 5.10 candidate for me? I wasn't interested in the R-rated second pitch (although it sure looks exciting...) but I figured we coulddescend from the threaded anchor atop pitch one or continue with the upper pitches of another climb.




I was also interested in Gaston, because it has a reputation for being underappreciated and somewhat tricky for its 5.8- grade. I'd heard the upper pitches, which are just 5.5, were also good.




Maryana thought Gaston was a better choice for a warm-up than Splashtic so we were set.




Dick's guidebook describes the first pitch as going up a ramp and then moving right past a bulge. Then thin climbing left past two pins was supposed to be the crux.




For me the crux of pitch one was the lack of pro low on the pitch. There is nothing for at least fifteen feet or more. I went up the easy ramp and then expected to find something. But I didn't.




Then another move up and left onto a ledge. Still pretty easy climbing, but I was still lookingin vain forsome placements.




Finally I found gear, but it was to the left of the route. Theclimbingclearly went to the right through the bulge. I had two pieces but they were off-line.




After trying out a couple of different approaches I committed to the surprisingly thin holds and got through the bulge.




Then I think I got another piece, something micro, before moving up and left to an angle piton. (Dick mentions two pins but I guess one has since disappeared.) I don't remember these supposed crux face movesas tricky. There was nothing as thin as the move at the bolt on Wonderland (5.8-), for instance. All I really rememberwas wishingI had more confidence in the gear.But once I clipped the pin it seemed everything would be okay. The rest of the way I felt both the climbing and the gear were casual enough.




At the end ofthe pitchI felt like in retrospect there was JUST enough pro. And the climbing was nice; it was clean andinteresting. Maryana pointed out that I'd missed the key placement. There is a place right below the bulge where a runner could be threaded. You can see it in the above photo over to the right of where I have a sling connected to the blue rope. I had pro at the same height but off to the left. It would have been better-- I would have felt better-- if I'd found this placement.









(Photo: Maryana at the final overhangs on the 5.5 pitch two of Gaston.)




The next surprise on Gaston was that the threaded anchor atop pitch one was gone. I built a gear anchor and brought Maryana up. We had been thinking we'd rap after pitch one and go do something else, but nowwe wereforced to do at least one more pitch.




Maryana led pitch two and itturned out to bevery nice. We both enjoyed it. While pitch one features interesting face climbing, pitch two is moretypical Gunks terrain, with good features in a huge corner systemand plentiful horizontals, leading up and left to some final overhangs with jugs.




One we reached the GT Ledge we had an easy walk over to the bolted rappel route to our left. But I thought it was a waste not to finish the climb. We'd come this far. Would we ever bother to come to this spot again? Might as well do pitch three. It looked like a short romp up to a roof. Why not do it?









(Photo: Most of the way through the 5.5 pitch three of Gaston.)




I led the pitch in about five minutes. I'm glad we did it. It reminds me of the top pitch of Minty. It is a little harder and the move out to the roof is a bit more exposed. But it is very similar, featuring a nice corner and then another juggy overhang. Good fun.




I think Gaston is definitely underrated at no stars. It has a lot of quality climbing. Each pitch is worthwhile. The rock is good. It is clean. It should have at least a star. I think if the two 5.5 pitches were not guarded by the tricky pitch one this climb would beextremelypopular with new leaders.




As it is it should be more popular with moderate leadersof all levels of experience.

The continued discusssion................

A week or so ago a buddy of mine and his friends were caught in a slide. Three of them were dragged a good ways, two of them seriously hurt.



More than amonth previous on my first day in Chamonix two good friends were buried and went at least a 1/4 mile in the run out. Both ended up on the surface, unhurtfor the most part but not unscathed. Scared the shit out of me watching as they went by and set the tone (likely a good thing) for the following sixweeks in Chamonix. All thatliterally a few hundred meters from the lift terminal and we were on foot!.



Look closely and you can still see the one meter crown from the slide just a few minutes before.









The list of my friends that have died in the mountains is highlighted by the deaths in avalanches. Most have died in avalanches. It bearsrepeating...most have died in avalanches.



My preference is simply to not ski in avalanche terrain these days. Easier said than done if you want to b-c ski in the NW or Canada. InChamonix we skied heavily crevassed glacier terrain on a almost daily basis. Same place the local mtn rescuewas "averaging 10 people a day off the Vallee Blanche.Crevasse falls, breaks, fatigue." All that "off piste".



I am not a big fan of skiing in crevassed terrain either. I generally try to avoid that as well.



As you might imagine that instigated some serious discussion and disagreements. Becasue if I wasn't climbing I was going to ski and do it up high on the glaciers in the Mtn Blanc Massif.



My idea is "don't ski in places that you could easily die". So knowing the terrain, be cautiousand be aware and honest about your own skills are key.



My idea of what I "might die on." May not agree with what, "you might die on".



I hadn't seriously skied in 10 years or so until this winter. That after working on skis for 20+ years in my previous life. But I have been thinking about it for a while now. To be honest even with all the experience,miles on skis and avalanche schools and snow studies,snow still simply scares me. I don't spend enough time out in the weatherand snowthese daysand know much of what I don't know. Which is why it scares me.Thatgot me thinking,"shouldkeep my head buried in the sand" or actually organize my kitto ski in relativesafety on questionable terrain and most importantly get out more and become aware of the situation in the field.



Depending on the scenario the kitwould generally include combos of transcievers, the Avalung, shovel,rope, harness, hardware, probe and a rescue sled. I owna Brooks Range Eskimo Rescue sled these days as part of that kit. And to date I haven't been required to used it, thankfully. But more and more I am thinking the entire kitjust might be better if you are going to ski in avi terrain or just simply out in the B-C skiing.



Be sure to dbl click the videos towatch them on a full screen.

More here:



http://brooks-range.com/Rescue-Sleds/

Muddy Creek

Jemez Creek looked very muddy yesterday when we took a drive up to the Jemez Mountains. There have been several good rains there and the dry conditions have probably caused a lot of very dry dirt to run into the creek.

The Sun Sinks into the Ocean

Beverly Beach State Park north of Newport, OregonSeptember 28, ..

Sunday at Ohiopyle State park

Laura in non typical climbing clothes, imitating an old west gunfight?

Are you sure we're going climbing?

Last night it was a tough call whether to pack for big ice or mix climbing. Laura and I are itching to get in some real local ice and were hoping to climb at SCII. After a little discussion we decided that conditions would most likely not be favorable enough to climb. So we packed up with mixed climbing in mind, leaving the sharp crampons and ice screws at home for a better day. Ohiopyle State park would be our destination. We were going to enjoy the results from yesterdays work. I put in some time equipping a line that we've top roped before at Bruner Run. Its a beautiful line up through overhangs and seams with some funky corner moves. It'll involve spicy gear placements in between bolted blank sections. The route overhangs about 15' in 55' of climbing.

Doing work son!

Steep, overhanging, mixed climbing

Figuring some moves, clearing some cracks, all in a days work!

The sign at the gate on Bruner Run Road. If the gate is open drive to the crag

at the bottom,otherwise its a steep walk down and back.

We set off to Bruner Run only to find the gate at the top of the road leading down to the river closed due to current icy conditions. Bummed by the road closure Laura and decided to visit Lower Meadow Run instead and save the new line for another day. Instead of heading straight to Lower Meadow, we decided to go check conditions at SCII to see how they faired after the several days of warm weather last week. Upon arrival we found the summit to have quite a bit more snow blanketing the ground. We booted up and hiked down to check it out. Conditions are looking way better than I expected. Here's a photo of what it looked like today.

Laura checking ice conditions dressedin

her Patagucci SCII camo edition softshell

Conditions looked better than I expected and some of the ice obviously made it through the last warm up. If the temps stay cold at night things will most likely continue to improve. For now the water is flowing nicely and there is still hope for some climbs this season. After a quick look we hiked back to the car and made the drive back to Ohiopyle to climb at Lower Meadow.



We hiked back across the bridge and up the stream to the crag. The icicles were hanging everywhere. The Main Flow has touched down and is building quick, but will most likely not survive the week as have most of the ice lines. The mixed lines are dripping, but climbable. Caveman is running the most and will involve some serious wet misery if climbed. Anger Management has some usable ice on it, but the finish is not in its thick icy state. Usually this line is about a grade easier without the ice up there, but rules out any pro from the last bolt to the finish. We decided to climb Season Finale a traditionally protected M6 R. This climb is always spooky. Its only about 35' long but packs quite a punch. The minimal gear placements are in questionable rock with the only solid piece being 5' from the finish, after the crux. The climb went well with a little mind management and some encouragement from Laura. I thought I was coming off just after placing the last and best piece on the route. I was getting pumped quick. There was no fear of falling and being injured at this point, but there was the fear of having to repeat that piss poor protected crux again. I hung on and made the last few burly moves to the anchors. Here's some shots of me on the climb.

Making the most of the ice?

Getting a pice below the crux

Working through the crux

A little further to the anchors

The ground shots don't do this route much justice. What it lacks in height it makes up for in spice. Most find the line to be much harder than expected. Here's another perspective. Laura cleaning the route.

Laura starting up

Laura hanging tough through the crux

Getting rough

Removing the last cam fried Laura and a hang was in order

A short rest had Laura cranking through the thin ice finish

It was a great climb and I'd highly recommend it to anyone thats solid at the grade and proficient at placing gear! If you think its a little over your head and aren't ready to tie into the sharp end, don't feel left out. Its an easy hike to the top and the ring anchors make it easy to rig this climb on top rope and provide hours of fun mixed climbing practice.

Unfamiliar with Ohiopyle climbing? Get in touch... I'll provide the info you need to get climbing in this neck of the woods.

Grassy Yard

Jim complained he hadn't had a chance to mow the several acreas of lawn they have, but I thought it looked so great with the tall grass and dandelions in bloom. After looking at nutural brown desert dirt for as long as I have any green looks good.

Buttercup

When I posted another photo of these flowers I said I didn't know what they were so I looked them up and they are a type of buttercup.

A Soma Buena Vista Redux

Over a year ago, I wrote about a 650B Soma Buena Vista mixte that a friend built up for his wife. It was a large(58cm)frame that I was able to ride after lowering the saddle. This time I tried another 650B Buena Vista, and the smaller (50cm) frame was built up very differently. The difference between these two bikes makes me appreciate the role that sizing, fit and component selection play in the "personality" of a complete bicycle.






When velo-celebrityBekka (aka bikeyface) began pining for a mixte, I suggested the Soma Buena Vista because of its reputation for versatility. B wanted a "non-girly" mixte that was aggressive yet comfortable, upright yet not too upright, classic yet modern, and to top it off, easy on the budget. I believed the Buena Vista could deliver these properties and volunteered to help "curate" the build, which was undertaken by Jim at Harris Cyclery.






The charcoal frame is the same as on the bike I reviewed previously. It is a nice looking gunmetal silver. The decision to go with 650B wheels was made in order to fit wide tires.






The gumwall tires are Panaracer Col de la Vie 650B x 38mm.






The wheels were built up with a dynamo hub in the front, the cables for the lighting routed using this method.






The rear wheel was built around a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub. The Buena Vista's horizontal dropouts allow it to be set up either with a derailleur, internally geared hub, or single speed drivetrain. B shares my dislike of many-geared hubs, but did not want a derailleur on a mostly-urban bike that would spend much of its life outdoors. She considered single speed initially, but eventually settled on 3 speeds. I think this was a good choice, considering how she intends to use the bike. In my experience, 3-speed hubs are efficient and keep the weight down, while still offering some gearing versatility.






The Sturmey Archer pulley is hidden above the bottom bracket and adds a touch of the archaic to the bike.






B wanted to try the trigger shifter, and I am curious what her verdict will be (I love them, but they are not for everyone). The Rivendell cork grips and the classic lines of the Tektro FL750 levers complete the old-school charm.






But charming need not mean docile. We set up the North Road handlebars aggressively, upside down and with a 10cm stem.






The Nitto North Roads have a dramatic drop, so flipping them over makes the bike très vroom-vroom. Not sure what the owner would think of this position, we left enough steerer to move the bars either up or down.






For fenders, B specifically did not want fancy-looking hammered things. As a more modern and less costly solution, we went with SKS. The ones designed for 700C work fine with 650B wheels. We chose the Longboard version, with mudflaps.






If I don't say so myself, I think the complete bike came together nicely. It suits the owner's preferences, both functionally and aesthetically. In the near future, she plans to install a rear rack and a small chainguard, but otherwise this is the finished state.Being now in posession of the bike, B really likes it so far. But I will wait some time before reporting her impressions.




As far as my impressions, the ride exceeded my expectations. Basically: vroom. Super-responsive, quick to accelerate, fast rolling. On flat terrain, the bike moved with me, almost effortlessly. AndI'd almost forgotten how much I love upside down North Roads. Mount them low enough and with a long stem, and you can attain a forward lean similar to that of drop bars, but with the gripping style of upright bars. I love this position for riding in the city.






With the Buena Vista's sporty setup, the 3-speed drivetrain might really be enough for the owner's needs, especially considering that she is great at climbing out of the saddle. The gearing we chose worked well for me, with a significant hill easy to tackle in first gear seated. But it was really educated guesswork on our part, and if B wants to change the rear cog or chainring in future, this can easily be done.




As far as toe overlap with the 50cm Vista frame, this will depend on your shoe size and on whether you have fenders. I experienced a bit of it, but not much. If you build up the frame as a roadbike, fenderless, and ride in clipless pedals, there is a good chance of no TCO. In any event, the owner is not bothered by it.








Depending on whose fit philosophy she follows, a woman of my height could end up on either the 50cm, 54cm, or 58cm Soma Buena Vista. Having tried the extremes of this spectrum, I believe that either size can work, depending on what qualities you are looking for in the bike.When I tried the 58cm Buena Vista last year, its long virtual top tube and high, wide, swept-back handlebars made it feel like a lightweight, faster version of a Dutch bike. By contrast, the 50cm Vista with its low, narrow, upside down North Roads felt like the lovechild or a modern roadbike and a pathracer. Go large for more tame, upright. Go small for more aggressive, roadish. In each case, the bike felt stable and the ride quality was pleasant. At $499 MSRP for the frameset,this fun and versatile machineis a good value.